Previously I have not seen anyone on any of the E7′s and E8 on the pinnacle. It’s cool to see, after a week of pristine weather, three of the E7′s and E8 Margins of the Mind have been climbed.
I went up to Cloggy on Tuesday with James Majot and sole intention of climbing Authentic Desire. I previously attempted setting off up it a couple of years ago, but later discovered that I was trying to climb up the wrong side if the arête. Doh! I was now eager to go and do it, route description to hand and get rid of the niggling feeling which had been eating away at me since getting turned away.
I set off up AD, feeling a little bit daunted at first but quickly got into the swing of things. The route just seemed to flow from start to finish with high smears, big layaways and airy moves up the arête with nothing more than small rp’s for protection. An almost improbable looking line which climbed seamlessly.
Next day I came back with Caff to return the belay favour. He wanted to finish off Margins of the Mind. This time he climbed it successfully to the top, despite the glaring hot sun which was in the way of all the holds. Even with what I already knew about the reputation of the route, seconding I was still horrified at how crap the gear was on the whole route. I would be surprised if any of it would hold a fall.
Now wanting to tick off all the E7′s on the wall I returned again yesterday and climbed ‘it will be alright on the night’.